Frida's Secret Stash

Frida Kahlo is one of the best known Mexican artists around the world; her life story in itself is a famous one. Undeniably dramatic and romantic, Frida's world was painted with the colors of Mexico and the turmoil of her own intimate pain. We have had the chance to get to know Frida even more intimately by visiting her home in Coyoacan, Mexico.
It seems we were in the right place at the right time when the World Premiere Exhibition of the 'Secret Letters and Drawings' of Frida emerged, on Umaran Street here in San Miguel de Allende; This is an amazing discovery of Frida's notes to herself and private thoughts is now available for the public to view. Frida kept a series of very intimate, forceful, emotional and sensitive materials in this box (above) hidden always. In her dying moments, she gave the box to her friend and carpenter to keep hidden. He honored her wish and kept the box hidden until his own death. Now a reasonable amount of time has passed, and the fans of Frida will intrigued with her powerful and passionate letters and cartoons. They reveal her pain, her intense anger and sorrow, her brilliant - and yet twisted - ideas and her most private thoughts. This simple exhibit was thoroughly emotionally provocative - this magnificent woman had the strength to externalize her immense heartbreak in beautiful, sad, but sometimes funny ways.
Check out the exhibition website at: The Heart Of Frida

A Hundertwasser Mexico

This morning, sure enough, and as is usual in Mexican towns, rifles fired off shots (bright and early) to signify the celebration of Allende, for whom the town is named for.
I stepped outside, the day was absolutely beautiful with a perfect temperature to be wearing a light sweater, and only one cute puffy cloud in the sky. I began my walk through town, and it occured to me that it really makes a difference not being on asphalt all the time. The roads are cobblestone here in San Miguel, and un-even surfaces rule. You have to build up ankle strength over time, walking around this town.
True throughout Mexico, there are gaps and holes and poles to fall or run into, sometimes dangerous, but mostly appealing to me who has come from asphalt jungles and too many signs telling me where or where not to go, look out for this or that, construction ahead, do not enter, maximum speed, is: The appeal (in San Miguel de Allende, at least*,) that the German artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser saught: organic surfaces everywhere, where your body could sense where to step and use its own sensual intelligence in an organic world.
I am living on Cerrada de Manantial in the 'ecological apartments' (Built by Beatriz Orvañanos) at the moment, and I think it is so much like the HundertwasserHaus in Vienna (see: German Wikipedia articles on Hundertwasserhaus), each apartment ecologically produced, and the feng-shui is significantly mejor than other places, it is a safe, affordable housing for at least 12 (maybe more) families. It has been the best place to stay thusfar in Mexico, feeling perfect for the mind, (tasteful design and simple) heart, and budget.
In Oaxaca Journal (Oliver Sacks) a collegeue says something like, 'In the United States, we are told what to do; in Mexico you have to use your brains'. There is no sign that says, 'Watch out for that hole' Watch out for that pole'. As I walked on the wind kicked up as it has been so in January, and the dust started to blow. Everything is dry now and arid, there is a thick layer of dust on every car and surface, and even my laptop needs a daily bath, as does my face, and eyes, and throat full of dust. Still, beautiful and desolate, I wish this experience to never leave my heart.



*to be fair, much of Mexico is littered with unfinished and non-ecological construction: cement or brick walls, pinned of rusting rebar, standing roofless and naked in non-nourishished stretches of land that was ruthlessly depleted over the centuries; the lack of money leaves barren countrysides without this appeal that I mention!

Blessed are the Animals

Lama gets the Holy Water treatment


January 17 is the day of San Antonio, patron saint of animals.
Here are the neighborhood animals coming to the Church at 5 pm today to hear the oracion and get blessed! Included at the San Miguel gathering were many poodles, birds, cats, horses, and a tiny turtle named Pepito.


See and Be Seen in San Miguel: the cutting edge in Min-Pin fashion


San Miguel Juvenile Mexican Golden Eagle gets blessed


A Chihuahua named Juanito




Beloved Songbirds and Chickens attend the ceremony

My final Oaxaca Update

We asked ourselves, 'Will you go to the soul of the country, Oaxaca, finally?' As we see tourists start to write new stories of their recent trips to Oaxaca, celebrating over the internet that the' graffiti has been painted over', and that hotels are open and 'ready for business', I want to post this view. There are shells of houses there, for not everyone is ready to return. Local children have the right to go to school safely, their parents, the right to continue their work, and for all the right to make money, to put food on the table. These are the rights that people should always have, everywhere. But this is an non-victory for human beings who wanted to live freely, to express themselves honestly, and who wanted the right to have a voice and be heard by their government. This was a picture of repression. And while we might dare to visit the pretty city of Oaxaca again, someday, we will not forget what happened when we ventured out last fall to this city we love so.
Instead I read about Oaxaca, daily in spanish, but also I read more than the news. I can recommend the "Oaxaca Journal" by author and neurologist Oliver Sacks, of which I read all. I wanted to quote from the book, instead I will just say that I was inspired by it, and found appreciation in it, since I had intended to study the medicinal herbs of Oaxaca as well explore my own interest in the uses of plants in culture in general...as Dr. Sacks explored his interest in pre-historic ferns growing in Oaxaca. I could appreciate that desire to spend one's time in that aspect of history and culture having had that desire myself to be in a small traditional community that would have that connection with the Earth. Instead I amused myself with the cacti here in San Miguel, the Air Plants and dry arid chapparal. I substituted experiences that I had sought for in Oaxaca with other things. Photography, writing, seeking out teachers, the herbalist-rancher in Baja, the healing waters of Zihuatanejo and the wonders of the Virgin of Guadalupe, meeting practioners in San Miguel, and of course practicing spanish. I reclaimed a political interest that I was not able to stomach six months ago.
Perhaps this is a last Oaxaca Update for us in 2007, and our thoughts will focus towards moving forward in our personal lives in the sweet heart of the country, San Miguel de Allende, for the winter.

The Worker's Liberty Journal writes:
"The struggle in Oaxaca was one of high points of workers struggle anywhere in the world last year. Now the movement of teachers and others in APPO is facing savage repression. We need to tell the story of the Oaxacan commune and make practical solidarity with workers under attack.

The latest Mexican Labor News and Analysis contains a report on the situation, based on a visit by trade unionized and lawyers 17-21 December.

The report says that the Mexican National Commission for Human Rights issued its preliminary report on December 18, in which it concluded that 20 people had been killed, 370 injured and 349 imprisoned since June 2, 2006. The delegation were told that many others have disappeared or are in hiding. The Commission reported that it had received 1,211 complaints regarding alleged violations of human rights due to the “improper use of the police forces, arbitrary detentions, people held incommunicado, disappearances, damage, injuries, threats and illegal raids,” concluding: "The parties [to the conflict] and the Federal Preventive Police, which intervened for the purpose of restoring public order, have used violence repeatedly and excessively. As a consequence, the institutional, social and cultural life of the state has been damaged."

San Francisco on the mind

San Francisco comes to visit.
In my thoughts, because my friends are there
I have to return there after all these months in Mexico.
I could go anywhere, but there is my old car and my cat to think of.

There are friends who may want to finish projects with me. There is work to be done.
But from there, where shall I go?

Abandon Studios

Here is the latest release!
Stars.mp3

Stars was recorded in Zihuatanejo with The Astral Force. Astral played a travel guitar that he picked up the day before leaving. Most of the sounds are from Garage Band, layed in with the keyboard controller he brought us.


The life I love is making music with my friends, Abandon Studios is alive and well on the road again. The name now seeming more apt than ever. Studio? We don't need no stinkin' studio.

Abandon Studios now consists of a Powerbook, one Shure 57 microphone*, and an M-audio Oxygen 8 midi keyboard controller. I bought a pair of computer speakers when back at home in Pennsylvania and my dad gave me a cord to use as a headphone splitter. We have a shakuhachi and a toy guitar. That's about it.

* Actually, Tlaquepaque vocals were recorded on the headset we use for Skype calls.

"Mobility is the new nobility." - Robert Burke

B'day Blog On Open Mic night

With just a few minutes before midnight, Erika's getting in a birthday bloggin' 'bout the gig tonight - made it happen for a small crowd, me singing Blue Skies (with Ben on guitar) and Love for Sale, a guy named John read from his new screenplay, and a guy named Nick told his story of the forbidden trampoline in Mulege, Baja sur, the sisters did comedy and the 'twin MC Mexicanas' and Tanya strummed a few chords, all while DJ Mentos stood ready to make it a big thumping party. But...an early night for all, as the weekend is near. New friends were made, old ones became older. It was a good b-day. Thanks for all the sentiments, and I hit "publish" just before the bells start to chime in the Parroquia!

Call in the Bomberos! The Submarine is Fix'd

December 28, Eugene left San Miguel for Philly, nice and early at 4 AM for a week trip back to the states. At 8 AM I reved up the Submarine to take Lama to the park, and found promptly that the sub was leaking gasoline - muy rapidamente... an attempt was made to drive to the mechanic maestro 'Pilly's', but finally our beloved sub stalled - and would go no further. With luck, this happened on the bigger two - way street in town, Zacateras, and very close to Pilly's. With some encouragement and instructions from the car wash guy in front of Pancho's Realty, the Transito was called, Policia and the Bomberos arrived 'somewhat' promptly and checked out the busted fuel tank. Then, as with all law enforcement in Mexico, the officials took turns adoring Lamacita Gordita.
One of the bomberos translated the fuel tank problem into spanish and wrote that down for me (since Erika's vocabulary of car parts is not the strongest aspect of her spanish.) The tow truck arrived, and for $185 pesos (That's less than $20 dollars) hauled the Mexican Submarine one block up the street and deposited it at Pilly's.
Pilly was not there, but the 'maestro' of the day was Herrardo, and he agreed to check it out. Garages in Mexico are quite different than those in the USA; normally each mechanic shop has a team of guys that work for the owner, and a 'maestro' who is in control of the project, and who directs the team of mechanics and mechanic apprentices. Also, normally in Mexico you only find cute blondes on the wall calendar. Ah, but the adventure continues!
The next day, a new day. At 9 AM we set off for a dog walk, and not halfway down the road to the park were we, walking with some young mexican kids, when a wasp attacked. I felt the sting in my neck - it got me right under the ear. The kids must have thought I was crazy, swatting uselessly around me at nothing, because the wasp was nested right in the top of my freshly shampooed head. I located it, grabbed it with my hand and too a look before thrusting it away: a giant, orange, mouse-sized mexican wasp. It was so strange looking I worried that I might die in a half hour or be paralyzed on the left side.
We trotted to Zacateras towards the Gypsy Cafe, thinking my friends might be there to give me an ice pack, but the cafe was closed - I worried, since it has never been closed on a beautiful morning like this one.
I paused to think, and just then a big blonde american woman, wearing a great quantity of lipstick, and denim shirt, pulled over in her suburban to talk to me in her Texan accent. "What a great dog you have! Can I talk to you about these things?" I hesitated, dizzy now with worry, and my neck was not moving to the left. She started in with gabbing about dogs and I interrupted her, "Sorry, but does my neck look all swollen, bloody and bruised and or paralysed from an amazing wasp that just attacked me?!!" Oh, well, she says, she's an R.N. and now notices that my neck is quite swollen indeed, and there is a small amount of blood, nothing too bad. Her name is Jean, and lives on Umaran. She recommends I get some Benadryl at the Pharmacia Guadalajara, just a few blocks away. After a little more talking (she seems to love to speak english with me for one reason or another) I make my way to the pharmacy and get a bottle of Benadryl. The pain in my neck is causing a lateral headache and my throat is throbbing. I think also clearly enough to buy a can of juice to place on my neck to ease the swelling which is huge now.
The car wash guy from yesterday sees me and also wants to talk, how is the car, how are you doing with you husband so far away now, etc. I dodge his over-friendliness by ducking into the newspaper vendor. Another man says, "Wow, que tranquilla perra tu tienes!" I say thanks, and grab my paper, turning to leave, but this dude wants to flirt too. I try to say goodbye, but then Jean appears, in the doorway, to check on me: "Did you get that Benadryl?" I thank her again for this rather obvious advice, and hurry off to the solace of the Parque Benito Juarez. Lama and I sit and enjoy watching the locals shoot hoops, a moment of peace, and I can tell - again - this day has already had it in for me - me alone (but never lonely) in Mexico for the Happy New Year.
We make our way back to the Colonia Allende, another twenty minutes away. The Benadryl has made me sleepy, and I still can not turn my neck. The inflammation does not change much with the dose. Once at home, I immediately get out the Chinese Medicine Box for a real remedy - to cure the toxic heat and clear the blood stagnation from the attack. Topical blood moving herbs, and clearing heat herbs, along with some moxibustion at the point of the sting, all combine and my neck moves fully now from side to side. However, the inflammation doesn't change much and the stinging sensation of the insect remains, stabbing every few seconds and sending pain down my left side. I have more herbs in my kit, and I'll go down the list trying things that I have, until I am well. I am determined to not let the day sweep me by as it did yesterday!
Later in the afternoon the Submarine is ready. New, functioning fuel line plus labor: $250 pesos. (That's about 25 bucks.) Scene of cute blonde with swollen wasp attack neck in the mechanic's garage on Zacateras: priceless!

Pilly's is one of the mechanics in San Miguel de Allende we can definitely recommend from multiple experiences and friends' recommendations. AutoMotriz "Pili" Calle Ancha de San Antonio #51, SMA, Gto. tel 152-61-26